It can be quite alarming when a poultry owner gets a consistent five eggs, daily, from five hens, only to find just one egg for a few days. This sudden drop in egg laying takes us all into detective mode – are they hiding the eggs? Are they sick?
Below you’ll find some of the most common reasons for decreased egg production to put your mind at ease and hopefully get your girls laying consistently again.
Why do hens stop laying eggs?
Molt. At 15-18 months of age, and every year thereafter, chickens will replace their feathers. Feathers will fall out to make room for new feather growth. During this time, hens will stop laying eggs.
Lighting. Chickens need about 15-16 hours of light per day to produce eggs. The first year, most laying breeds will lay through the winter without artificial lighting.
Too many goodies. Think of kids, if you unleashed your kids at a buffet, and told them they could get whatever they want, most would load up at the dessert table. Your girls will do the same thing, filling up on bread, table scraps etc. they may not be getting what they need to produce eggs. This is usually a slowdown, more than a stoppage.
Too much lovin’. One rooster can easily handle 12-18 hens. If this ratio is too low, he will over mount the girls and bare patches will appear on their backs and the backs of their heads. This stress can drop them out of production.
Dehydration. It doesn’t take much water deprivation, especially in hot weather, to take your hens right out of production. Many times alpha hens will not allow submissive hens (bottom of the pecking order) to drink. They are attempting to “vote them off the island”, but the first thing that will happen is an egg stoppage. We recommend adding water stations during warm weather.
Any undue stress. Maybe the coop is secure, but they are still being harassed by raccoons, neighbor’s dogs, or other predators.
Egg eating by the hens, or theft by 2 or 4 legged scoundrels! They may be laying, but the wrong critter is getting the eggs. Believe it or not, human egg stealing is more common than people think – I’ve even seen it on a game camera.
Change in the pecking order. Adding new hens, a new rooster or removing a hen can cause a power void and/or drama. Drama=stress=egg production drop
Illnesses/parasites. The reasons above may likely be the cause but parasites or illness can also cause stress on a hen.
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This article provides answers to some common questions asked by people who are considering getting chickens.
Q: What breed of chicken should I get?
A: Consider the right birds for your climate! For cold climates, choose cold-hardy, dual-purpose birds, such as the Barred Rock, Buff Orpginton, and Wyandotte. Their smaller combs and wattles prevent heat loss. For warm climates, consider Mediterranean breeds like the Leghorn, Minorca, and Andalusian. Their bodies are slimmer, and they have large combs and wattles. A first-time owner may have better success with all the same breed or a flock made up of all large fowl, rather than a flock that includes bantams. See Henderson’s Breed Chart for more detailed info on breeds.
Plymouth Rocks are good cold-hardy breeds and Leghorns are great for warm climates.
Q: Do I need a rooster to get eggs?
A: Nope! Your hens will lay on their own. If you want to hatch chicks, you’ll need a rooster. A rooster also helps protect the flock and keeps peace among the hens.
Nutrena NatureWise provides optimal nutrition for your birds.
Q: Can I feed them table scraps?
A: Fruit and veggie scraps are fine, but make sure that 85% or more of their diet comes from a quality, balanced layer ration. A properly formulated layer feed like Nutrena® NatureWise® supports the immune system, provides important nutrients for great eggs, and supports healthy and effective digestion.
Q: Will I get eggs all the time, and how many?
A: Different breeds lay different numbers of eggs. You can get a rough idea of how many eggs per breed on Henderson’s Breed Chart. Your girls will lay the most during their first 2 to 3 years of life but will likely continue to lay for several years afterwards. They generally stop laying during the winter, but with a few tricks like supplemental lighting, you can maximize your winter eggs. Your hens will start to lay again in the spring. Female birds also stop laying when they’re molting (losing and regrowing their feathers). Sometimes a hen will go broody and want to hatch eggs. When this happens, she’ll stop laying. Following some simple tips can help your hens lay their best.
Your hens will lay different numbers of eggs based on several factors.
Q: How do I know when my chicken is sick, and what do I do about it?
It’s important to develop a relationship with a vet who can care for your birds.
A: Chickens are very good at hiding signs of illness, so try to pick up your birds on a regular basis to know what is normal for their bodies and weight. Also know what behaviors are normal. Weight loss and changes from routine can indicate something is wrong. Establish a relationship with an avian or poultry vet in your area, and have an emergency fund for veterinary services. Your state’s agricultural extension office may be a good resource as well. Put together a chicken first-aid kit, including a hospital cage. Get your birds used to being handled in case they have to be treated.
Pullets at point of lay have small, pink combs and wattles, which become larger and more red as they mature.
Q: Should I get chicks or older birds?
A: Chicks are great because they become tame the more you handle them. But they are messy and should be kept in a brooder box (often in the house!). You can also get pullets at point of lay (female birds that are about 20 weeks old). If they were not handled a lot, they may be skittish and wary of humans, but they will lay eggs sooner. You may also adopt a flock of older birds.
Q: Can I add new birds to my flock?
A: Yes! Chicken math is a thing: once you start getting chickens, you’ll want more! But adding new birds to an existing flock can be tricky, so be sure to follow these tips. Also consider the source of the birds and observe proper biosecurity to prevent illness in your flock.
Q: Can I leave my chickens for a few days when I’m out of town?
A: Consider your birds to be a 24/7 commitment. You should have someone plan to look in on them twice a day while you’re away. Morning care should include letting them out of the coop, feeding, and watering. In the evening, around dusk, have your sitter put them back in the coop and collect eggs. The sitter should also monitor for any signs of predators or injury. If you have a veterinarian, provide his or her contact information. Read this post for additional tips.
Q: What kind of housing do I need?
A: Chickens don’t need a fancy home, but they do have a few basic requirements. The coop should be well ventilated but draft free; there should be some air circulation, but, in winter especially, cold air should not come rushing through cracks. Keep the coop and run as dry as possible to prevent illness and frostbite. You’ll also need to have enough space for your birds to prevent them from pecking one another: 4 square feet per bird in the coop; 6–8 square feet per bird in the run.
Q: How do I convince my neighbors that chickens are a good idea?
A: Sometimes chickens are a hard sell, but they often end up being a fun neighborhood-building activity. Find out what your neighbors’ main concerns are, and then research solutions. Demonstrate that you are following best practices. For example, if rodents are a concern, you can run ¼” hardware cloth underneath the coop and run and keep food stored in metal cans. Provide your neighbors with resources that address their concerns, such as this article by a well-known chicken author. Invite them to go on a tour of well-kept coops in your area. Be prepared to make some compromises!
A well trained, big and strong, livestock guardian dog can be a valuable asset to help ward off wolves, coyotes, and other dangerous predators.
For people that live on land with cattle, sheep, and other ranch animals, livestock guard dogs can be a huge help. People have been keeping livestock for thousands of years and, in all that time, they have been tasked with keeping these animals safe. Helping them keep these animals safe have been livestock guardians dogs.
Similar to the way that bloodhounds are bred to track, these are dogs bred with the specific purpose of protecting flocks and herds of animals from wild predators, other dogs, and even trespassers of the human variety.
Livestock guardian dog breeds are very large, with thick coats and an excess of scruff. Their coats help keep them safe if they get in fights, with their size ensuring they have a good chance of intimidation and victory. Keeping wild wolves and coyotes away from the more vulnerable animals on the property is a job that is much more suited to a 150 pound dog with strong jaws and packed with muscle than is it a 15 pound lap dog that doesn’t really like to move.
While people are usually aware that livestock guardian dogs can protect goats, cattle, and other larger animals, they may not know that some of these dog breeds will also guard chickens with the same amount of ferocity and loyalty.
MODERN DAY LGDs Livestock guardian dogs have been around for thousands of years, with many different breeds that would come to span across the world. In regards to looks and personality, the livestock guardian dogs are almost identical to their ancestors of hundreds of years ago. The history of the livestock guardian dog is expansive and interesting.
Today, livestock guardian dogs are in decline. Livestock that requires a living protection at all times is becoming more and more rare as technology increases and free-range herds decrease. The dogs are simply not needed as much for their original purpose.
Another reason for this is that livestock guardian dogs are not typically pets. They tend to be more standoff-ish in personality, ranging from shy to outright aggressive with people. Having even a possibility of aggression in such a large dog is very offsetting to people.
Chicken livestock guardian dogs specifically are not often utilized. This is for a number of reasons, but the main reason is trust. People feel like they can not leave a dog unsupervised with a flock of chickens, and therefore do not want to put in the work and money to purchase a livestock guardian dog for their birds.
They may also not feel that it is cost and time effective to buy and train a dog to protect a flock of birds unless they have a very large, free-range operation.
TRAINING A really important thing to keep in mind is that every dog will need some kind of training when dealing with chickens. Livestock animals are prey, but chickens are significantly easier to chase and kill than a cow. Any dog with a prey drive, which is almost every dog out there, will naturally want to chase the chickens if the birds are flapping their wings or making distressing noises. The dog can be taught to protect the chickens instead of stalking them. There are a few things that can be done to improve your chances of your dog and chickens getting along.
Introducing the dog to chickens when they are young is very important. Old dogs can learn new tricks, but it is a lot harder for everybody involved. Once a prey drive against chickens is established, it will be incredibly difficult to train it out of the guardian dog.
Always supervise puppies to ensure good behavior during the training stage.
Though they should spend a lot of time with the chickens, only once the puppy is grown and behaviorally mature should it be left unsupervised with the flock. Some unassuming fencing, like chicken wire instead of wood, will go a long way in ensuring that the dog does not see the fence as a territory border, but as just another part of their property.
Supervised time for the puppy to interact with the chickens inside the chicken fencing is important, so that any bad behavior, like chasing or biting, can be stopped right away.
SMALL FLOCKS A lot of people who have considered getting livestock guardian dogs have a small flock of chickens and maybe a few goats. The chickens might be fine during the day, but foxes, coyotes, and strays in the more rural residential areas can be a problem during the night. However, people worry that the dog will be bored with such a small flock. They don’t need to worry.
For one thing, this is how a lot of livestock guardian dogs work. They aren’t like herding dogs, that are constantly running around with the herd. Instead, the dogs sit and wait until they are needed to protect the animals under their charge.
A small flock of birds may seem like it is not enough to keep the dog stimulated and working, but this isn’t true. In regards to the happiness of the dog, they will be just as happy and effective with a flock of chickens as they would be with a large head of cattle.
CONCLUSION If you have a flock of chickens in a space where you are worried they might be in danger from the local wildlife, a livestock guardian dog might be the perfect solution for you. Livestock guardian dogs add a sense of security for owners.
These are dogs that are at their happiest when they have a job to do. Chicken livestock guardian dogs can have just as fulfilling a life with their small little flock as a free-range cattle guardian dog.
Making sure your chickens are safe should be one of the top priorities of any keeper.
While adult chickens are more likely to kill a snake than the other way around, chicken eggs and young chicks can be eaten by larger snakes. This danger makes it absolutely necessary to snake proof your chicken coop.
Though it is a myth that commercial snake repellants or devices truly work to keep snakes away, there are a few tips that can help you keep your coop safe without harming or killing any snakes.
After all, snakes are pretty cool animals and their death is not necessary for keeping your flock out of harm’s way.
Are you having problems with snakes getting into your chicken coop?
Keep reading to learn the 5 best tips for keeping your chickens safe, and making sure snakes are not harmed in the process.
How To Keep Snakes Away From Chicken Coops
Clear debris and increase visibility
A great way to prevent snakes from coming into your yard is to make sure there are no places to hide. Snakes are generally shy creatures that need lots of hiding spots from larger predators. This hiding spot could be a log pile, old equipment, wood or sheets of metal, bushes and even tall areas of grass. Snakes will be a lot less likely to appear if you make sure your yard and your chicken coop is free of debris, overgrown areas and patches of long grass.
Seal any small holes in your coop
Only bigger snakes like rat snakes, bull snakes and large corn snakes really pose any threat to your chickens. Even these larger species pose very little danger to adult chickens and will only consume younger chicks if given the chance. That being said, these larger species can easily squeeze themselves into small holes, and making sure your coop is properly sealed is a great measure to keep snakes out. Any holes that are larger than a half an inch should be sealed. Chicken wire is not recommended around your coop as it is usually big enough that snakes can make their way through the gaps. Once they are through, they may consume a small chick and be too big to get back out again!
Use hardware cloth or wildlife friendly netting
Cloth or netting can help keep snakes from getting into areas that they are unwelcome. You can use hardware cloth or a fine mesh around fences, chicken runs, and even the base of your coop to keep snakes out. Some people suggest bird netting, but this is a really dangerous option for wildlife. Not only can snakes get caught up in it and killed but birds, deer and other larger wildlife can become entangled and die. A better option is smaller mesh (with .5cm or smaller openings), or hard plastic sturdy netting that won’t get caught on snake scales. These wildlife friendly options still work to keep snakes out of your coop, but will be a much safer alternative.
Keep rodents away from your coop
Since the primary diet of most snakes is rodents, having rodents around your coop can actually attract snakes. Mice, rats and chipmunks hanging out around your chickens will encourage snakes to stay in the area as they have a steady food source. To keep rodents away, you should ensure that all your chicken feed and grain is properly sealed in rodent proof containers. You can also bring in your chicken’s feeders at night or use feeders that rodents will be unable to steal from. If your rodent problem is particularly bad, you can dump out the water overnight and refill it in the morning. Taking away the food and water source for rodents will help keep them away from your yard and therefore help keep snakes away. Lastly, keep the area around your coop as clean as possible. Pick up any stray food after feeding and you will likely see less rodents running around.
Make sure you maintain your coop
Making all these changes to keep snakes away won’t work if you don’t maintain them. As your coop ages, you will likely see more and more small holes that need to be filled, mesh and fences that need to be replaced, and an increase in vulnerable areas that predators can exploit. Making sure you are maintaining your coop and keeping the general area tidy and debris-free will be the best long-term strategy to keep snakes away.
FAQs
Will A Chicken Fight A Snake?
Usually chickens are not keen on fighting snakes and when given the choice, they will flee. However, some territorial chickens that have a strong desire to protect their chicks will take on the challenge. Mature chickens often have no problem killing snakes and the result of their fight almost always ends with the snake’s death.
What Can I Put Around My Chicken Coop To Keep Snakes Away?
There is no specific snake repellant that works nor is there a device that will magically keep snakes away, though many companies trying to sell products want you to believe that. Snake traps may help keep snakes away from your coop, but most of them are also inhumane and usually lead to the death of the reptile. Glue traps in particular should always be avoided as once stuck, it’s almost impossible to remove the snake and they will usually succumb to the elements or injury. The best way to keep snakes away is prevention. Making the area predator proof, clean, and free of rodents are a few steps that can help ensure snakes stay away.
Conclusion
You don’t have to kill or harm wild snakes in order to keep your chickens safe. Commercial snake repellants are ineffective and traps will often lead to the death of any who are caught by it. Thankfully, there are a variety of effective methods that will ensure the safety of your flock while posing no danger to native wildlife. Keeping your coop clean, removing debris and grass that may block visibility, sealing holes, using wildlife friendly netting, avoiding attracting rodents and making sure your coop is properly maintained will give snakes no reason or chance to infiltrate your coop.
Let us know if these tips have worked for you in the comments below.
Are you looking to build a coop for your first flock of backyard chickens? This article has everything you need to know about building a safe coop for a happy flock.
The perfect chicken coop protects your birds from heat, cold, weather, predators, and diseases, while also being comfortable for them and accessible for you.
I’ve had chickens in my backyard for decades, and in that time, we’ve gone through at least three chicken coops. Every time we build, there are new lessons to be learned, but the fundamental principles always stay the same. The perfect chicken coop is big enough to house the whole flock, sturdy enough to withstand the worst weather, and safe enough to keep out the most determined predators. Perhaps most importantly, it is easy for you, the owner, to clean, maintain, and keep in the best possible shape. This keeps your hens safe and healthy as long as possible. In this article, we’ll break down the things you need to know before building such a perfect coop.
Choose a plan that meets all your needs. There is no one-size-fits-all perfect chicken coop plan or design that will work for every flock owner, but there are a number of universal concerns everyone should consider before picking a coop plan. One of the big ones is capacity: How many and what kind of chickens is the coop able to safely hold? How much space your birds will need will depend on a number of factors. Free-ranging birds or birds with a run will need significantly less space than birds that will be confined all day; roosters generally need a bit more space than hens; and bantam breeds can usually get by with less floor space but need more vertical space. Your personal accessibility needs – how well you can get into the coop to clean and collect eggs – is another major concern people often overlook.
Pick a location that will keep your girls safe and cool. As with plans, there is no hard and fast rule about what makes the perfect location, only a series of concerns to balance against your own needs and preferences. Shade is a big one; placing the coop out of direct sunlight can help keep your flock from overheating. However, building your coop directly under the trees can run afoul of another concern, which is accessibility to predators. Hawks will see a flock that lives directly under a sturdy tree as easy prey, and ground-based predators will more easily access your coop if it is surrounded by good hiding places. Finally, human accessibility is key. Building a chicken coop can take anywhere from a weekend to about two weeks, and maintaining a flock in one more than five years. Consider how far you want to schlep building materials, tools, chicken feed, and eggs to and from the coop. As you may be doing this every day for half a decade, reconsider before picking the spot furthest away from the house.
Add enough ventilation for all seasons. It’s hard to think of a few wall vents as a lifesaving design feature, but for a chicken coop, having proper ventilation is absolutely crucial. In fact, it’s one of the best things you can do to keep your girls safe and healthy. A well-ventilated coop will bring in lots of clean air, which will help stop potentially fatal respiratory diseases like Newcastle and bird flu from spreading in your flock. In addition, ventilation will help keep your birds cool in hot weather. Even though modern-day chickens are descended from tropical junglefowl, they are much more susceptible to overheating than freezing. However, both heat waves and cold snaps can be dangerous to chickens. The solution is to have a lot of vents at all heights throughout the coop, which will blow cooling drafts over your birds on hot days, but to have those vents be closeable. In the winter, closing all but two vents at the very top of the coop (above the roosts) will help keep your flock both warm and disease-free.
Use hardware mesh to keep out predators. When it comes to keeping predators out of the coop, hardware mesh (also called hardware cloth) really can’t be beat. Its small holes (much smaller than those in chicken wire) keep out all manner of ground-based predators, and you can’t use too much of the stuff. Use it to reinforce your walls, your floor, your outer fence, and then bury some more at least six inches into the ground around your perimeter. The one place chicken wire is a better choice is for the upper parts of the run fencing, to keep chickens in and other birds out.
Customize your nesting boxes and roosts for maximum safety and comfort. Nesting boxes (for egg-laying) and roosts (for sleeping) are the two parts of the coop your hens will use most often. They aren’t fussed about what they look like, as long as your nesting boxes are filled with something soft (like wood shavings or straw) and your roosts are the highest available sitting place in the coop. Have 10 inches of space per bird in your roosts, and one nesting box for every three hens, plus one more than you need for if a hen goes broody or picks a favorite box.
Building your own chicken coop can seem daunting, but it doesn’t have to be. There are only a few crucial elements to keep in mind when building that, if planned for correctly, will result in a sturdy coop and a safe, happy, healthy, productive flock.
If you are new to raising chickens, you’ll need to know the basics to keep your hens healthy and safe through the cold days of winter. From whether to heat your coop or not, to how to keep your hens from feeling cooped up, Nutrena Poultry Expert Twain Lockhart has advice on winter care that will help you keep your birds safe, happy, and healthy.
Wondering why your chickens are picking each other’s feathers? There are several things that can cause feather picking. Twain Lockhart, Nutrena’s Poultry Expert details the top reasons in the short video.
Always supervise puppies to ensure good behavior during the training stage.
